手表基础知识--中英文对照

Component/

Watch Term

手表/零部件术语

Case

Description描述

The case is the body that houses the watch movement. It s usually made up of three parts: middle, bezel, and back. Cases

come in a variety of shapes and sizes. A strap, bangle arm, bracelet or chain (on pendant or pocket watches) is usually

表壳

Basic Case Shapes

基本表壳形状

1) Rectangle 长方形

2) East-West

rectangle 两边矩形

3)Tank -

A rectangular

watch designed by Louis

Cartier.

水槽形

attached to the case.

表壳功能∶用来安置机芯。一般有3部分组成：表玻璃，表圈与表底盖。表壳有各种各样

的形状和尺寸。表壳上配有表带，手镯式，手链式，或链形腕带。（怀表上通常配有垂饰）

4) Square 方形

5) Oval 卵圆形

6) East-west oval 两

边卵圆形

7) Tonneau -

shaped

like a barrel with 2

convex sides. 酒桶形

Round

Rectangular

Oval

Oval east-west

8) "Tonneau case"

is

used to describe a type of

watch case, with rounded,

bulging sides resembling

a barrel (or cask).酒桶表

壳

9) Cushion 垫子形

10) Round 圆形

11) Heart 心形

12) Flower 花形

Tonneau

Tonneau

Combination

Unusual (letter)

Bezel表圈

The Bezel is the component on the case encircling the dial. It can be a separate piece or made as part of the case (less

expensive). If there is a bezel on the watch please specify whether it is fixed or rotating (can be turned). If there are stones on

the bezel please detail whether setting is glued (on alloy) or prong set (brass jewelry watches). If there are bezel markers

please detail if ink filled on production sheets.

表圈是表壳的组成部分，环绕表面。它可以做成和表壳分开的或和表壳是一体的（一体的便宜点）.如果表壳上有表圈请注明是固

定的还是可旋转的。如果表圈上有钻，请注明是胶粘钻（合金上用）或定型镶钻（黄铜珠宝表）。如果表圈上有时标请在生产单上

详述是否是油压时标。

Crystals and/or

faux crystals on

bezel, case, dial

表镜和，表圈，表

壳，表面上的水晶/或

人造水晶

Lugs表耳

We usually use either China crystals or Czech crystals. China crystals are less expensive and should be used when color is

available. Never use China crystals if clear color. The clear China crystals are very yellow. It is better to use Czech crystals

for clear color. We can also consider using plastic chips on children’s watches if qty is high enough.

我们常用的表镜来自中国水晶或捷克水晶。中国的表水晶/玻璃比较便宜，如果有我们需要的颜色一定要用中国制造的。但

是记住不要用中国的透明表玻璃。中国的透明玻璃比较发黄。最好用捷克 透明玻璃。当订单的数量够大时童装表可以考虑

用塑料芯片表镜。

Lugs are the projections / extensions on either side of the case to which the strap or bracelet is attached by pins / spring bars

to the case.表耳是突出于表壳两侧的用来固定表带的部分，通常将表带用插脚或伸缩性生耳固定于表耳上。

The plate on the back of a watch where you can access the battery. On our analog watches, we use either polished case backs

with etched markings or unpolished with stamped markings. For licensed and better watches, we normally use polished

etched case back markings.从表底盖夹板处可以看到电池。我们的指针式电子手表底盖采用抛光蚀刻标记或无抛光冲压标

记。有牌子的或比较好的手表上我们通常采用抛光蚀刻标记。

Watch cases are designed many different ways. Cheaper and vintage watches will usually have a "snap back." This is a watch

where the back is held in place by pressing it on until it "snaps" into place. This offers the movement little to no protection

from outside contaminants. A "screw back" is a back with finely cut threads. It then is screwed into the watch case. It usually

has a gasket ring that also helps to seal out dust, dirt and water.

有很多不同的方式设计表壳。比较便宜的和旧款的表常用压入式底盖，底盖压下去后听到“啪”的一声底盖就装好了。这

种底盖对机芯外面的污染没有阻挡功能。旋入式底盖，表壳后盖有很细的螺纹，可以旋转安装在表壳上，通常有防水胶

圈。螺纹锁紧表壳以确保其防尘，防污和防水。

On our analog watches, please indicate the position of the lip with an arrow pointing to it. This is the grove where the user can

insert a tool to open the case back. 在指针式电子手表的底盖唇上请做箭头标注开表口，用于让使用者可以在此处用工具打

开底盖。

The crystal or lens is the transparent glass or plastic cover protecting the dial or “face” of the watch, hands, and/or digital

display. It protects the dial and movement from dust and moisture.表镜/表玻璃的材料是透明玻璃或塑胶的，用于保护表

面，指针和/或数字显示。它可以保护表面和机芯防尘，防潮。

A watch crystal is a transparent cover that protects the watch face. Watch crystals are available in plastic, Mineral, Sapphire

and various synthetic materials. 表镜是透明的，用于保护表面。表镜的材料有塑料，矿石，蓝宝石，和一些不同的合成物

Note that, coincidently, the word "crystal" is also used to denote the tiny piece of quartz that serves as an oscillator in a

quartz watch. These two types of crystals have nothing to do with each other. In Quartz Watches the term "quartz crystal" is

used to prevent confusion. 注：很是巧合，水晶一词也用于石英表上表明震荡器的石英。这两种水晶是完全不同的东西。石

英表上通常用“石英水晶”来区分表镜水晶。

Case Back

表底盖

Crystal表镜

Crystals & Lenses

on Watches表镜上

的水晶和镜片

- 1 -

Types of Crystals

水晶的种类

Material Composition

水晶材料的合成物

Crystals can be made of any of three materials: 水晶可以有以下3种材料的任一种。

1- Plexi-glass (a clear, lightweight type of plastic).有机玻璃（透明，重量轻的塑料）

Plexi-glass, as you would expect, is the least expensive. It is also the least likely to shatter and the most likely to become

scratched. Mineral glass, even though it has been hardened by a tempering process, is more likely to break than Plexi-glass.

But it is also more scratch-resistant than that material. Synthetic sapphire is the most expensive glass crystal material and the

most scratch resistant. Because it is so hard, it is also brittle, and shatters more easily than mineral glass or Plexi-glass.

有机玻璃，如我们所愿，是最便宜的，也最不容易打碎，但也是最容易刮伤的。矿物玻璃，尽管是经过高温形成使之加

硬，但还是比有机玻璃易碎，不过比有机玻璃耐刮。合成的蓝宝石是表镜材料里最贵的，也是最抗刮伤的，因为它非常坚

硬，但是比矿物玻璃和有机玻璃易碎。

2- Ordinary glass - like that used for windows, and usually referred to in the watch business as "mineral glass". Mineral

crystals offer up a good combination of clarity, strength and resistance to scratching. Sapphire crystal is a very hard

transparent material commonly used for "scratch-proof" watch glass.

普通玻璃--如用于窗口上的玻璃，通常在表界被称为矿物玻璃。矿物水晶的透明度非常好，抗划伤力强。蓝宝石水晶材料

透明，质地很硬，一般用于防划"scratch-proof"表镜上。

3- Synthetic sapphire. Some crystals are made of both mineral and sapphire glass. Seiko, for example, makes some watches

with crystals made of mineral glass covered with a layer of synthetic sapphire. Seiko calls this composite material "Sapphlex".

合成蓝宝石。有些表镜是由矿物和蓝宝石合成的玻璃。如日本精工表，有的表镜是由矿物玻璃上覆上一层合成蓝宝石造成

的。精工管这种合成材料叫做"Sapphlex".

Synthetic sapphire is a very hard, transparent material made of crystallizing aluminum oxide at very high temperatures.

Chemically, synthetic sapphire is the same as the natural sapphire used in jewelry, but without the coloring agents that give

the gemstone its various hues. When it is heated, the synthetic sapphire forms round masses that are sliced into pieces with

diamond-coated saws. These disks are then ground and polished into watch crystals. (One reason sapphire crystals are

relatively expensive is that the tools required to make them are costly.)

合成蓝宝石硬度很高，由氧化铝晶体经过高温造成的透明材料。从化学的角度讲合成蓝宝石和自然的珠宝类蓝宝石是相同

的，只是没有宝石拥有的多种颜色。当加热时，合成蓝宝石形成圆块，用镶有钻石锯子锯成片，然后研磨抛光成表镜。

（蓝宝石水晶比较贵的一个原因就是制作蓝宝石表镜的工具比较贵）。

Sapphire (whether natural or synthetic) is one of the hardest substances on earth. It measures 9 on the Mohs scale, which is a

system for rating the relative hardness of various materials. (Diamond measures 10, the highest rating.) Watch crystals made

of synthetic sapphire are often marketed as "scratch resistant", meaning they are very difficult - but not impossible - to

scratch. Diamonds can scratch them; so can man-made materials that incorporate silicon carbide, with, with a Mohs rating of

between 9 and 10, is, like diamond, harder than sapphire. These materials are sometimes used to make simulated-stone

surfaces for furniture or walls. The watch wearer should note that accidentally scraping a sapphire crystal against such a

surface could cause a scratch.蓝宝石（无论自然的还是合成的）是地球上最坚硬的物质之一。它的莫式硬度等级是9。莫式

硬度标是用来评价不同材料硬度等级的系统标准。（钻石的硬度等级是10，是最高的硬度等级）。合成蓝宝石表镜经常标

上“防划”，意思是它很难划伤，但不是不可能划伤。钻石就可以划伤它；人造材料的碳化硅合成物达到9或10莫式等级

就同钻石一样，比蓝宝石还要硬。此材料有时用于做家私或墙上仿钻的表面材料。佩戴蓝宝石表镜者应该注意此材料也会

意外划伤的。

The crystals have been coated on one or both sides with a substance - the same one used on anti-reflective eyeglasses - that

lessens reflections and glare and makes it easier to read the watch face. Anti-reflective crystals can be made of either mineral

glass or synthetic sapphire。有的手表会在蓝宝石表玻璃表面镀膜，有的甚至在玻璃的里外两侧全都镀膜，起到防止反光和

增加透射率的作用，这个和眼镜片以及照相机镜头是一样的。防眩水晶可以是矿物玻璃的或合成蓝宝石的。

One interesting feature of these crystals is that, viewed from the front, they are virtually invisible because they aren't

reflecting any light. In some instances, the coating gives the crystal a telltale bluish tint, as it does on eyeglasses. This tint is

easiest to see if the watch has a light-colored dial.防眩水晶的一个有趣的特性是从前面看几乎看不到, 因为它不反光。有的表

镜会在表面涂一层蓝色调以引起注意，就如太阳镜。如果表面是浅色的通过此色调最容易看清楚。

Please specify material going forward on all production sheets (plastic /acrylic crystal, mineral crystal, sapphire crystal)

Please specify shape on all production sheets going forward – for example – flat, curved, domed, faceted, beveled, and wall-to-

wall. 请在生产单上详细标明所用材料（塑料/丙烯酸 水晶，矿物水晶，蓝宝石水晶）；并标明形状，如：平、曲面、球

状、有小面、斜面、直面。

Indicator, usually made of a thin, light piece of metal, normally made of brass (rhodium-plated, gilded or treated otherwise),

but also steel or gold, which moves over a graduated dial or scale. Watches usually have three hands showing the hours,

minutes and seconds. The shape and color of all should be indicated on spec sheets and production sheets (for example – silver

sword hour & minute hands). 指示器-表针常用比较轻薄的金属如黄铜(镀铑，镀金或其他的处理方式)，但是也有钢的或金

的,指针围绕刻度旋转。通常手表有3个指针,分别是时针，分针和秒针。在生产单上一定要标明指针的形状和颜色如（银色

宝剑式时针和分针）

The correct terminology to use for the glow in the dark hands is “luminous”. LUMINESCENT or LUMINOUS is said of

materials applied on markers (s.) and/or hands (s.), emitting the luminous energy previously absorbed as electromagnetic

light rays. 指针在黑暗中发光的术语叫做发光体。此发光材料用于时符上，和/或表针上，荧光的电能是来自吸收的电磁光

.

There is luminous paint in the market with varying degrees of life of glow-paint. Hands used to be treated with tritium. In

order for timepieces to be read in the dark, a radioluminescent material was laid on the dial indexes and hands. According to

ISO 3157 Standard, only the use of the following radionuclides is authorized for timepieces: tritium (3H) and promethium

(147Pm). 市场上也有在时符上涂不同程度荧光粉的,表针经过氚处理.为了在黑暗中可以看到时间,有的在表时符上和指针上

涂有辐射发光材料.根据ISO3157标准,只有以下几种放射性核素是允许用于表上的:氚(3H)和钷(147pm).

It is important to specify that these radionuclides emit a radiation of low energy, perfectly confined by the watch case and

glass; they may under no circumstances threaten the health of the watch user. Tritium is no longer widely used and was

replaced by other substances having the same emitting powers, but with virtually zero radioactivity, such as Super-LumiNova

and Lumibrite (s). 很重要的一点要标明这种放射线核素是低能量的，可以被表壳和表玻璃阻挡住；完全不会影响使用者身

体健康。 现在人们不再广泛的用氚材料了，取而代之的是其它的发光材料，具有相同的光能，但是几乎是零放射性，如超

级夜光涂漆(Super-LumiNova and Lumibrite (s)。

There is green luminous & white color luminous material. The most common is green. On production sheets, please indicate

either “genuine green luminous” or “genuine white luminous” if you want it to glow in the dark. Some vendors will use only

luminous color paint so we need to specify “genuine”.有绿色夜光和白色夜光。最常用的是绿色夜光。如果你要求它在黑暗

处发光请在生产单上标明“genuine green luminous” or “genuine white luminous”。因为有些供应商只是用发光颜色漆在时

符上，所以我们要特别标明是“真正的”夜光材料。

"Anti-reflective"

or

"glare-resistant"

crystals防眩水晶

Hands表针

Hands (or hour

markers) with

“Glow in the dark”

accents

在黑暗中发光的的

表针（或时符）

- 2 -

Dial表盘

Dial Markers

表盘时符

Types of dial

markers

表盘时符的类型

The dial or face of the watch is what the time is displayed on. Please indicate type of dial surface on all production sheets

Sunray, glossy print, vertical brush, sandblast, with outer CD or printed zone, MOP (mother-of-pearl), faux-MOP, luminous,

abalone, waffle textured, wavy textured, carbon fiber, etc.表盘/或表面是显示时间的地方。请在生产单上标明表盘的类型，

太阳纹，光泽印刷，直砂，喷砂，外CD或印刷区域， 珍珠母， 仿珍珠母，夜光，鲍鱼纹，华夫织纹，波浪纹，碳纤维

纹，等等。

Please indicate the type of dial markers – for example – printed, embossed, applied, ND labeling, thick printed genuine

luminous, etc. Please indicate whether Arabic or Roman numerals are to be used, or indices, dots, or a combination of these.

It is best to give some indication of the font when using Arabic numbers (for example – “Script Arabic numbers” or “Block

Arabic numbers” If printed a color with black or other outline – be specific and indicate such – for example – PMS 286C red

with black outline. Also, printed luminous numbers often look better with a black outline on watches – if this is the design –

please indicate the outline (black or silver or gold) on the production sheet. You should indicate other markings such as

“diamond cut inner circle”, for example.请在生产单上标明表盘时符加工类型—例如—印刷，浮雕效果，镶贴，ND唛头，

浓印真夜光，等等。并要标明是用阿拉伯数字还是罗马数字，或是刻度，点，或综合的。当用阿拉伯数字时要标明字体

（例如—“阿拉伯手写体”或“阿拉伯粗体”。如果字体黑色或其它颜色外框—标明—如PMS286C 红色字，黑色外框。

如果有设计要求，字体是黑色的外轮廓时，刷上发光材料会看上去比较好些，或标明字体的外轮廓是黑色，或银色或金

色。如果有其它要求也要列出，如：钻石用内圆刀片切割。

Applied粘贴

型

–

separate pieces of metal applied to the top of the dial plate-独立的金属零件帖在表盘上.

ND / labeling唛头 –

metal-look sticker applied to the top of the dial – used for flat/wide & fancy numbers有金属外观的贴

片帖在表盘上—用于平/宽 和花式数字上.

Embossed浮雕效果压花

– punched metal dial markers 冲压的金属表盘符.

Printed 印刷

Faux or genuine crystals仿/真水晶 –

can be set in a bushing or glued on dial without bushing.

可以是有套衬安装或无

套衬胶水粘

Applied luminous sport index给运动时符敷发光料。

Embossed / punched浮雕/压花

luminous sport indices夜光运动时符。

24 hour

Markings on dial 24小时时符: World time and military time operates on a 24 hour measurement. After 12:00 noon

you continue to add "1" hour. 1: is 13:00 or "13 hundred". Midnight is "24:00". The pilot has the traditional 12 hours

dial and the 24 hour day markings.世界时间和军事时间是用24小时表示的。中午12点以后加上“1”个小时，1:00p.m 是

13:00。午夜是"24:00"。 ETA 表有传统的12小时表盘和24小时时符。

A sub-dial, or subsidiary dial, is a small dial placed inside the main dial on a watch face. Watches can have as many as four of

them. Sub-dials, also called auxiliary dials, give information not provided by the main watch dial. They are common features

of multifunction watches such as chronographs, alarm watches, dual-time-zone watches and calendar watches.子表盘/副表盘

或子表盘是装在表面里的小表盘，可以安装多达4个小表盘。子表盘/副表盘提供主表盘没有的时符。这是多功能表的共同

特征，如计时表，闹表，双时区表和日历表。

A time display in which the second hand is placed in a small sub-dial. Inner tension rings on case or dial. If there is an inner

ring on a watch, design, please indicate on the production sheet whether it is a part of the dial or the case. Please detail any

printing on inner rings as well.小秒针是装置在小表盘上的。内影圈在表壳上或表面上。如果表上设计有内影圈，请在生产

单上表明是表盘的一部分或是表壳的一部分。并将印刷的细节和内影圈的细节标明。

Is an aperture in the dial that allows reading the underlying indication, mainly the date, but also indications concerning a

second zones time or jumping hour (s.). 孔径/视窗-在表的面盘上所开的孔称为视窗，主要用于显示日期，但是也可以显示

第二时区的时间或跳时。

Instrument for measuring speed. In watch making, a timer or chronograph with a graduated dial on which speed can be read

off in kilometers per hour or some other unit (see timer). 流速计是用来记录速度的。计时计或秒表是有刻度的，这样就可以

算出每小时多数公里的速度。

The knurled knob located on the outside of a watch case and used for winding the mainspring. It is also used for setting the

hands to the right time and for correcting the calendar indications. Usually positioned on the case middle (s.) and allows

winding, hand setting and often date or GMT hand setting. 表冠是置于表侧面的突出体，用于给表上链。也可以调节表针到

正确位置，并可以调节日历。表冠一般在侧面的中间位置。可以上链，调节日历，或格林威治时间调整。

As it is linked to the movement through the winding stem (s.) passing through a hole in the case. For waterproofing purposes,

simple gaskets are used in water-resistant watches, while diving watches adopt screwing systems (screw-down crowns).

Instead of "snapping" back into position, Screw-down crowns are screwed down sealing out unwanted items such as dirt and

water). Crowns are either brass with plating or steel. 转动表冠带动机芯给表上链。如果是防水表，要在表冠里放置防水

圈；如果是潜水表，要用旋入式的表冠，不用压入式的。旋入式的表冠可以防尘，防水。表冠可以是电镀黄铜的或钢的。

Other types of crown其他类型的表冠

- cabochon (polished but un-faceted) with epoxy, precious or semi-precious domed

cap.有凸圆穹顶形的表冠（经过抛光但是有小面的）带有环氧树脂穹顶，带宝石的或半宝石的穹顶形表冠。

Plating is the coating on the base metal case. Please indicate the plating on the production sheet. Plating on a watch can be 2-

tone -for example – 2-tone acid gold / PnP 电镀是给基底金属表壳覆层的方法。请在生产单上标明电镀方式。电镀可以是2

色的—比如—2色酸性镀金/PNP.

Subdial

子表盘

Small second

小秒针

Window

视窗

Tachometer

流速计

Crown

表冠/把的

Plating电镀

- 3 -

Plating – Types电

镀类型

PNP

Palladium / Nickel plating – silver-tone plating

we use on our watches. 镀钯/镀镍-镀银色

Gunmetal

青铜

PdP

Palladium plating (nickel free)镀钯（无镍）

Black

chrome

黑色铬

Acid gold

酸金

gold plating for low-end watches给比较低档的手

表镀金的一种方式。

Black IP

黑色IP

Hamilton

gold汉密

尔顿金

in general the term refers to the colors of gold

used by the Hamilton Watch Co. on their

popular watches from the 40's 50's' and 60's.

Different from the "brassy" yellow American

standard gold colors used on jewelry of the day, a

typical Hamilton watch utilized a "pale" yellow

gold finish that had an understated but

distinctive warm character.

The light gold color is described as 1N14. The

natural 18ct gold color being 2N18

一般来这个术语是指汉密尔顿公司的40' ，50'和

'60'年代受欢迎的金表颜色。它与美国的用于珠

宝上的黄铜感觉的金色标准不同，典型的汉密尔

顿金有一种发白的黄金效果，朴素但是又有种与

众不同的温暖特点。这种浅金色称为1N14，自

然的18ct金色称为2N18。

Brown IP

啡色IP

this is the dark blackish / charcoal

plating we can use on alloy cases这是

一种显黑的/木炭的色调的电镀，我们

用在合金的表壳上。

matte or shiny solid black plating for

alloy cases – problem with this is that

it tends to scratch/chip when applied

to alloy cases给合金壳镀亚光或闪光

黑色-此电镀的缺点是当用在合金壳上

时容易被刮伤。

(on brass or steel only). Black ionic

plating. In purest form resembles

ceramic（只用于黄铜或钢上）黑色离

子电镀。非常类似陶瓷制品。

(on brass or steel only). Brown Ionic

plating.（只用于黄铜或钢上）咖啡色

的离子电镀

Antique

brass or

bronze古

黄铜或青

铜

Antique

silver古银

Antique

copper古

铜

Acid gold

with black

oil酸金+

黑色油

Vermeil银

外镀金

2.5 micron gold over sterling silver

base

在纯银壳上镀2.5mm金.

(looks antiqued – is shiny acid gold with black oil

rubbed over – usually used on cases with

detailing/filigree so the black oil fills the

crevices).(看上去是古色的-是用光泽酸进加擦黑

色油镀层—一般用在有细节装饰或金银丝的表壳

上,黑色的油可以渗透在裂缝里.

(looks antiqued – is shiny PnP with black oil

rubbed over – usually used on cases with

detailing/filigree so the black oil fills the crevices)

看上去是古色的—是光泽PNP电镀加擦黑色油-

一般用在有细节装饰或金银丝的表壳上,黑色的

油可以渗透在裂缝里.

Old English Brass (on brass cases only)

古英国黄铜色电镀（只用于黄铜表壳上）

old English Pewter (on brass cases only)古英国青

灰色 （只用于黄铜表壳上）

Rose IP玫

瑰IP

IP Gun

Rose Ionic Plating离子镀玫瑰金

dark charcoal grey in color深炭灰色

电镀

Rose gold玫

瑰金

(tarnished easily – must be micron

plated thick)

容易生锈—电镀层一定要厚.

PNP or

PdP with

black oil

Titanium钛

Color 颜色

OEB

OEP

RhP

PtP

Rhodium铑

Platinum plating镀钯

Finishing on watch

cases表壳的后加工

Variety choice of color from 1N14, 2N18, to rose gold. Full plating and 2-tone.

IPG电镀有不同的颜色选择，从1N14, 2N18到玫瑰金。全单色电镀和2色电镀

IPS is defined as a method of technology, with which stainless steel materials and rare elements are

sputtered on the substrate at the same time to form densely compound coatings in the vacuum chamber.

IPS 电镀被定义为 科技方式，不锈钢材料和稀有元素可以持续不断地覆层在基质上同时在真空下形成

一层厚厚的镀层。

IPS+IPG 2-tone, can also add platinum or palladium to create jewelry glamour color Shinning surface

IPS+IPG是2色电镀，也可以加上白金或钯，使表面的颜色呈现出珠宝的光泽。

IP grey, IP

The IP pure black color is similar to ceramic black . IP 纯黑电镀的颜色和陶瓷的黑色相近。

gun, IP black

IP black with stainless steel, 2-tone or IP black with IPG, 2-tone.

IP 黑色电镀不锈钢，2色或IP黑色电镀+IPG,2色。

Please specify the finishing of the plating on cases, bracelets, buckles going forward. For example – Polished/shiny, vertical

brushed, sandblast. Finishing is different than plating. Please also specify if the finishing is mixed on a case or bracelet. For

example – “polished case with matte bezel”请在生产单上详细列明表壳/表带/表扣电镀后的加工方式.比如—抛光/闪光,直砂,

喷砂. 后加工和电镀是不同的程序.并请注明表壳或表带后加工是否混合式的. 例如:抛光表壳亚光表圈。

IPG

PLATING

IPS

- 4 -

Movement

机芯

Caliber机芯型号

Displays显示器

Liquid Crystal

Display (LCD)

液晶显示

Analog-Digital

(ANA-DIGI)

模拟数字显示

Analog Display

(QA)

模拟屏幕显示

Automatic (or self-

winding) watch

自动上链表

The movement is the inner mechanism of the watch that keeps time and moves the watch hands, calendar, moonphase, etc.

Movements are either mechanical / automatic, quartz, solar or kinetic. We mostly use quartz analog movements

机芯是用于表壳里面的机械装置，是让表指针，日历，月相等等运转计时。机芯有机械/自动，石英，太阳能或动能的。我

们最常用的是石英类的机芯。

The movement to be used for each watch should be indicated on all production sheets going forward. Quartz movements

account for 90% of all movements (including quartz analog display & digital display watches). Quartz movements are

powered by quartz crystals and are mass produced.生产单上每个表的机芯类型一定要注明。石英机芯是指石英占90%（包

括石英屏幕显示&数字显示表）。石英机芯的电能来自石英水晶，是批量生产的。

Originally it indicated only the size of a movement (s.), but now this indication defines a specific movement type and shape

(e.g. round caliber) and combines it with the constructor’s name and identification number. Therefore the caliber identifies

the movement. The name and number identifying the exact movement model. For example – PC21J (made by Seiko)

最初它仅仅指的是机芯的尺寸大小。但是现在被定义为机芯的类型和形状（如圆机芯）,机芯的制造商和机芯的型号共同组

成了此术语. 例如- PC21J（日本精工株式会社制造）。

The watch display shows time either digitally or with an analog display. Indication of time or other data, either by means of

hands moving over a dial (analogue display) or by means of numerals appearing in one or more windows (digital or numerical

display); these numerals may be completed by alphabetical indications (alphanumerical display) or by signs of any other kind.

Example: 12.05 MO 12.3 = 12 hours, 5 minutes, Monday 12th March. Such displays can be obtained by mechanical or

electronic means.表的显示器显示时间,有数字显示或模拟屏幕显示. 时间或其他数字的显示可以是指针在表盘上的运转或是

在一个或多个窗口显示数字;这些数字可以字母的形式显示或是其它的形式显示. 例如: 12.05 MO 12.3 = 12小时,5分,星期

一,3月12日.此显示可以是机械的也可以是电子的形式。

A digital watch display that shows the time electronically. Liquid crystals held in between 2 thin transparent plates receive

electronic pulses that display time. All LCD watches have quartz movements.数字显示电子表是以电子显示时间的.液晶利用

水晶片的发振现象受到外部两个透明的薄片板的加力电压,就会有变形和伸缩的性质,相反,若压缩水晶,便会使水晶两端产生

电流,石英表就是利用周期性持续发振的水晶,为我们带来准确的时间的.所有的LCD 表都有石英机芯.

A watch that shows time by means of hour & minute hands (analog display) as well as by numbers (digital display)

显示时间的方式有用时针&分针（ 模拟显示）, 和数字显示的.

模拟针显示

----

为了把集成电路脉冲转化成运动，模拟指针式石英表上装有一个增速马达，包括一个电磁转子，每承受一

下脉冲，就旋转180度，也就是一秒钟。转子连接着由三个齿轮组成的拖动系统，驱动三根指针（时针、分针和秒针），

把时间显示在表盘上。还可以加上一个显示屏，显示星期、日期以及流逝的时间。

A watch display that indicates time by traditional hands over dial.

此类表是以传统的表盘上的指针来显示时间的

.

A step up from the original “winding watch” is the sophisticated automatic watch – also called the “self-winding” watch.

These watches wind automatically as you move your wrist – eliminating the need for batteries. On the basis of the principle of

terrestrial attraction, a rotor turns and transmits its energy to the spring by means of an appropriate mechanism. The system

was invented in Switzerland by Abraham-Louis Perrelet in the 18th century. 自动上链表是从传统的手动上链表的基础上的

进一步发展的产品.此类表是通过手腕的摆动而自动上链的-不需要电池.上链的原理是利用地球的引力,使自动系统内的重物

(金属摆陀)摆动，金属摆陀的不段转动从而推动系统内的杠杆及齿轮为主发条上链. 此上链体系是由瑞士的阿伯拉罕-路易斯

皮特在18世纪发明的.

The bale is the attachment on top of pendant or pocket watches through which the chains goes. 这是装在吊坠上的环或让怀表

链穿过的小环.

A watch band made of leather, plastic or fabric. Please include a brief description of the strap. For example – Black calf-look

PU strap, tapered and lightly padded with self color stitching and tan faux-suede lining. Indicate whether cut edge, turn edge,

etc. Always describe the material of the strap – whether PU, leather, silicon, rubber, canvass, nylon with velcro closure, etc.

表带有皮质的,塑胶的,纺织品的.请在生产单上标明表带的类型. 例如—黑色牛皮外观PU表带,宝剑头表带尾,带内有薄的夹

层,原身色车边线,黄褐色人造绒面麇表带底. 并要表明是切边,还是折边等等.一定要描述表带的材料, 如: PU, 真皮,硅胶,橡胶,

帆布,尼龙+魔术贴等等.

Mention the color of the stitching, if flat, padded, double layer – all details. Mention any detail such as studs, grommets,

buckles, embroidery, printing, etc. Mention if is a standard 2-piece strap (with top & bottom strap) or a 1-piece cuff strap.

Describe the cut of the strap (tapered, straight, scalloped edges, etc). If it reversible or a double-wrap strap this should be

detailed as well. 描述车线的颜色,是否平的,有填充夹层, 双层----所有细节都要列出，如螺钉,垫圈,扣的类型,绣花,印刷等等,并

且指出是否是标准的2件式表带(短带&长带)或者是1件式表带.并要描述表带的切割类型(内置夹层垫,直的,扇形边缘的,等

等), 是否双面用或是包边的也要标清楚.

Bale环

Strap表带

Examples of PU / leather texture: 例举PU/皮的纹理

Croco (round, square, etc), Lizard, Snake / python, Pebble, Distressed (look of aged leather), Matte soft calf, Oily leather calf,

Perforated (holes in leather), Ostrich, Stingray, Patent鳄鱼纹(圆的,方的,等等),蜥蜴纹,蛇皮纹/莽纹,卵石纹, 陈旧感(看上去是

旧的皮),亚光的软牛皮, 油质的小牛皮, 带孔的(在皮带上打孔), 鸵鸟皮, 黄貂鱼皮,漆皮图案纹.

- 5 -

Buckle表扣

The buckle is the fastening used to secure a strap to one’s wrist. Usually matching the case, it attaches the two parts of the

leather strap around the wrist.表扣是表带系在手腕上的用于固定的扣,连接长带和短带.通常要和表壳相配.

Examples of buckles on straps 表带扣例举如下

Duck 鸭嘴式

Square sport 方形运动式

Butterfly / deployment 蝴蝶扣/暗扣

Brass buckles are plated and steel buckles are not. You need to mention the finishing of the buckle as well on all production /

spec sheets.黄铜扣是电镀的,钢扣不需要电镀. 请在生产单上标明表扣的后加工方式.

Like a leather belt buckle, this traditional clasp is found on many leather and other

non-metal straps.皮带扣是传统的表扣,许多皮带上和非金属表带上用这种扣.

Bracelet手镯式表

带

Mesh网眼表带

Endpiece尾端件

Integrated band

与

表壳成一整体的表带

Link metal band. Can be made of alloy, brass, steel (folded, solid or semi-solid). 金属表带环.可以是合金的,黄铜的,钢的(折叠

式,实心式,半实心式).

Type of band – is made from stainless steel – not alloy or brass. There are mesh bangles as well as regular bands. Mesh bands

can be flat layout, tubular, braided, etc.网眼表带---是用不锈钢做的---不用合金或黄铜材料做. 有网眼手镯式表带或普通的网

眼表带. 网眼表带可以是平面结构的,管状结构的,辫状结构的,等等.

End piece is a separate piece closing the gap between the case and bracelet. It can also refer to a separate piece attached to the

case on a strap watch that connects the case & strap.尾端件是表壳和手链式表带之间的单独的配件。 可以是指固定在表带

上用来链接表壳和表带的的单独配件。

The band is integrated into the case – is one piece/set – not with separate end piece/band/case.

此类表带是和表壳连成一体的，不是独立的配件。

Link in H-shape used between jewelry clasps to have adjustability function on bracelet.

H形的链子是用于有珠宝扣的表带上起调节作用的。犹如锁链。

H Link H链

Clasp 表带扣

Closure on bracelet watches clasp - the attachment used to connect the two ends of the watch bracelet or strap around the

wrist.表带扣是用于扣合表带的—长短表带的链接物。

1. Deployment Buckle - A three-folding enclosure, which secures the two ends of the bracelet and allows enough room for

placing the watch on the wrist when fully deployed. When closed, the buckle covers the two-piece folding mechanism.

2. Hook Lock - Two separate units each fitting on either end of the bracelet which allows the watch to be laid out. One end of

the closure hooks onto the other to secure the two ends of the bracelet.

3. Jeweler's / Jewelry Clasp - A closure that is generally used on better bracelets. Also allows it to lie flat.

4. Sliding Clasp - Also a hook type method but allows for easy sizing of the bracelet by sliding up.

5. Twist Lock - A closure similar to Jeweler's Clasp used on ladies jewelry bracelets.

1.暗扣/蝴蝶扣---可以三叠，暗藏表带尾并在打开的时候可以有足够的空间自由脱戴。当关闭时,表扣盖住下面折叠的2层.

2.钩式扣--两件独立于表带尾的物件，一端的钩钩住另一端的带尾使表带扣合于手腕上。

3.珠宝扣—这种扣通常用于比较好的手镯式表扣上，起到表带扣起后比较平的效果。

4. 滑扣—也是个钩状扣但是因是滑进式的所以比较容易合手腕。

5.扭转扣—同女装珠宝扣类似。

Other types include:其它表扣类型包括以下几类：

Box, Fold-over clasp, Fold-over clasp with safety, Fold-over with push-button, Jewelry clasp with push button, Toggle,

Lobster 盒式，折叠式，折叠安全式，折叠有按钮式，有按钮珠宝扣，栓扣，龙虾爪扣。

Bracelets & Clasps

手镯式表带和其表

扣

Bangle Bracelet手镯式表带

The bangle bracelet is distinct in that it has two or more very large curved links that form

the bracelet instead of many small links. These larger links are known as bangles. The

image to the left illustrates the two larger curved links with the smaller links attaching to a

Jeweler's Clasp.手镯式表带有个明显的特征就是由2个或多个比较大的弧形粒子代替许多

小的粒子。这种大粒子就是手镯式表带。如左图大粒子加小粒子与珠宝扣连接。

Box with Tongue Clasp盒式舌扣

The Box with Tongue Clasp is explained very well with the picture to the left. There is a

basic locking mechanism on this clasp but it may wear out quite easily thus making the

watch difficult to keep on.盒式舌扣，可以在左图清晰的看到式样。这是比较基本的机械

扣，但是缺点是比较容易磨损，磨损后很难再扣紧。

Box with Tongue and Safety Clasp安全盒式舌扣

This is the same as the Box with Tongue Clasp except it provides additional security

through the locking bar that swings tightly onto the locking post. This clasp is found

frequently on 14k gold watches like the Bulova 14k gold.此表扣仅比盒式舌扣多加了一个

可以扣住的保险杆。此类表扣常常被用在14K金表上。

- 6 -

Deployment Buckle or Invisible Double Locking Clasp蝴蝶扣或暗折叠扣

The Deployment Buckle or Invisible Double-Locking Clasp is also known as the Hidden

Deployment Buckle or Butterfly Clasp, because, when closed, the clasp is essentially

invisible and it opens symmetrically like a butterfly. This is perhaps one of the most

common clasps available and most preferred by customers because the clasp is not a

distraction from the watch itself. The clasp is opened by pulling the joined ends of the

bracelet away from the wrist. These clasps also come on some of the leather and other

non-metal strapped watches. 蝴蝶扣或暗叠扣，当关闭后，扣是看不到的，打开后两边是

对称的如蝴蝶的翅膀。这是最常用的表扣，也是最受消费者欢迎的，因为此表扣是最不

引人注意的。打开时只需将表扣的链接片拉开。这类表扣也可以用在皮带上或非金属带

上。

Deployment Buckle with Push Button按钮蝴蝶扣

The Deployment Buckle with Push-Button is essentially the same as the Deployment

Buckle in looks and function except that its locking mechanism is released by two small

buttons on each side of the bracelet. It is advantageous because the locking mechanism

cannot be released by pressure on the bracelet, but only by pushing the buttons. This

reduces the likelihood that the watch will release the without the wearer knowing it. These

clasps also come on some of the leather and other non-metal strapped watches. 按钮蝴蝶

扣基本上和蝴蝶扣外观一样，只是在表扣的两边有2个按钮，按下可以打开表带。这是

此表链的优点，因为只通过表带的压力不能打开表扣，只有按下按钮才可以打开表扣。

这可以避免戴表者无意中将表打开。此类表扣也会用在皮带上或非金属表带上。

Expansion Bracelet可伸展表带

The Expansion Bracelet or Band is designed to expand or stretch over the wearer's wrist

and then contract snuggly on the wrist when released.可伸展式表带是可以伸展的，伸开

时容易脱或戴，又容易回复到原大小，合于手腕。

Fold Over Clasp折叠扣

The Fold Over Clasp collapses on itself and locks via a pressure tab. The clasp typically

has several micro adjustment holes (as seen in the image) that can be used to adjust the

bracelet size by non-jewelers. In time, the pressure tab often wears out and the clasp no

longer stays closed. This has led to the following three different improvements on the Fold

Over concept.折叠扣的开和合是通过按下表扣上的小压舌。如图所示，一般此类扣有几

个小调节孔，不用螺丝刀就可以调节表带的尺寸，如图。但是经过一段时间后容易磨

损，小舌就扣不紧表带了。这就需要在此基础上改进，如以下三种表扣。

Fold Over Clasp with Safety 安全折叠扣

This is the first of three improvements on the Fold Over Clasp. The Fold Over Safety

Clasp provides a flap that folds over the closed end of the clasp which makes the clasp

more difficult to open unintentionally. 这是第一个折叠扣的改良扣。安全折叠扣上加了一

个保险按键扣环，可以使佩戴者不会在无意识下打开表带。

Fold Over Clasp with Push Button安全按钮表扣

This is the second of three improvements on the Fold Over Clasp. The Fold Over Clasp with

Push Button Clasp provides a secure lock on a post that can only be released by pushing the two

buttons. This improvement is more secure than the Fold Over Safety Clasp.

这是折叠扣的第二种改良扣。此类表扣在表扣的两侧有按钮，只有按下两边的按钮才可

以打开表扣。比第一个改良款更安全

.

- 7 -

Water Resistance:

防水

Water Resistant

to 30 Meters:30米

防水

Epoxy环氧树脂

Electro

Luminescent

or E.L电发光

Bushing套管

Pave（宝石）密镶

Filigree

金属蕾丝花样工艺

A water resistant watch is one made to prevent water from entering. A Water-resistant case has joints are made to prevent

moisture from entering.防水表是用于阻止水进入表壳里的作用。防水表壳有防水圈阻止潮气进入机芯。

There are several features that help make a watch water-resistant. The most important is the gaskets, or 0 rings-made of

rubber, nylon or Teflon which form watertight seals at the joints where the crystal, case back and crown meet the watch case.

If the watch is a chronograph, the chronograph pushers will also have gaskets. In addition, water-resistant watch cases are

lined with a sealant, applied in the form of a quick-hardening liquid, which helps keep water out.有几种方法可以让手表做到

防水.最重要的一种是加防水圈---由橡胶、尼龙、或者特氟龙材料做的防水圈涂上防水油,安装于表镜、底盖、和表冠处起到

防水作用。如果是记时表，按钮上都要加防水圈。另外，防水表的表壳上要涂一种快干液体密封剂，以防水。

The thickness and material of the case is also a big factor in determining whether a watch can safely be worn underwater. The

case must be sturdy enough to withstand pressure without caving in. In general, this means steel or titanium cases, or a steel

case plated with gold. Solid gold cases can be water resistant provided they are sufficiently thick.表壳的厚度和材料成分也是

决定是否此表可以在水下佩戴的一个重要因素。表壳必须够坚固承受住压力不变形。一般是指钢壳、钛壳或是镀金钢壳。

如果纯金的表壳厚度够那么它就可以防水。

A screw-in case back, as opposed to one that pushes in, also contributes to a watch's water resistance. A screw-in crown, a

feature of many divers' watches, helps prevent water getting into the case through the watch-stem hole. When it is screwed

down it forms a water tight seal much like the seal between a jar and its lid.表壳是旋入式的可以起到防水作用的。压入式的

不防水。许多潜水表的表冠是旋入式的以防止水从表把手进入。当旋入时可以形成防水圈有些象罐子和盖子之间的蜂蜡。

Watches with the lowest level of water resistance are labeled simply "water-resistant." They can withstand splashes of water

but should not be submerged. Above that (or below it, literally speaking), the most common designations are

最低限度的防水表会标上"water-resistant"（防水）.它可以防飞溅的水，但是不能用于水下防水。一般来说常用的防水设

计就是以上几种。

Manufacturers often measure water resistance to a number of feet (ft), meters (m) or atmospheres (atm). Watches marked

"water resistant" with or without additional indication of high pressure must comply with NIHS 92-10 watch Standard

(corresponding to ISO 2281 international Standard). Such watches are designed for everyday life and must be water resistant

during exercise such as short swims. They can be worn in different temperature and pressure conditions but are under no

circumstances designed for scuba diving. 钟表制造商经常以英尺（英尺），米（m）或大气压（ATM）的数字标示防水。

手表标有“防水”无论有或无附加的高压指示都要符合NIHS 92-10表准，（与ISO 2281国际标准一致）。为日常配戴手

表做的防水一定要适合日常活动的防水，例如短时间的游泳，可以在不同的温度和气压下配戴，但是不适合用于潜水配

戴。

-50 meters (1 meter is about 3.3 feet), which means the watch is suitable for swimming;

-100 meters; indicating it can be worn snorkeling;

-200 meters, suitable for recreational scuba diving and, believe it or not,

-1,000 meters (roughly three-fifths of a mile).

-50米防水（1米大约是3.3英尺），可适用于游泳。

-100米防水，可适用于浮潜。

-200米防水，可适用于娱乐性的潜水。

-1000米防水，（大约1英里的五分之三）

Watches in this last category can endure deep-sea diving. Their gaskets are made of materials that can withstand the helium

used in decompression chambers. Some have valves that let the wearer release the helium that has seeped into the watch so

the case won't explode as the watch and diver adjust to normal atmospheric conditions. -1000米的表适用于深海的潜水。防

水圈的设计是减压室用的可以耐氦的材料。有些表装有阀门以让戴表者返回正常大气压时可以释放渗入表壳里的氦气，不

至于使表爆炸。

Keep in mind that the depth specified on the watch dial represents the results of tests done in the lab, not in the ocean. The

different levels of water resistance as expressed in meters are only theoretical. They refer to the depth at which a watch will

keep out water if both watch and the water are perfectly motionless. These conditions, of course, are never met in the real

swimmer's or diver's world. In real life, the movement of the wearer's arm through the water increases the pressure on the

watch dramatically; so it can't be worn to the depths indicated by lab testing machines.

注意表面上标的防水深度数字是代表实验室的测试结果，不代表深海深度。不同等级的防水数字只是理论数据。表示如果

表和水都是静止不动的，到达那个数字的深度就要将表离开水。但是在真实的生活中，佩戴者的手臂在水中是不停运动

的，给表以很大的压力，所以真实生活中是不可以戴着它去到实验数据的海水深度。

What looks like ceramic or enamel on our watches is usually epoxy at our price points. We usually cannot afford real enamel

or ceramic. Epoxy would be used on links, crowns, bangles arms, charms, etc.

在我们的表上看上去象陶瓷或珐琅的东西以我们的价位其实环氧树脂。一般来说我们的价位是远低于陶瓷和珐琅的。环氧

树脂用于表链上，表冠上，手镯式表带上，和链式表带的垂饰物上。

Light up dial panel.用电使表盘发光。

Metal prong piece to hold crystal in place. The Designer should indicate if stone is to be set in a bushing – for example – “clear

Czech crystal in silver kite bushing”, as well as the shape of the bushing. Most common bushings used on dials are kite, round

and square shaped. 套管是用于套住擒纵叉水晶的。设计师应该标明水晶是否需要套筒---例如---透明捷克水晶套银色套筒。

Fully stoned / covered in crystals. Usually refers to case or dial or can be a pave set link on a bracelet. The sides of the case

cannot be pave on alloy cases.全镶钻/全镶水晶。一般是指在表壳上、表面上镶钻、也可以在手镯式表链上镶钻。合金的表

壳侧面不能镶钻。

Detailed open work on metal bracelets or bangles. 手链式或手镯式表带上的金属蕾丝花样工艺。

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Shells commonly

used on watches

& dials

贝壳常被用在表上&

表盘上。

MOP (mother of pearl), abalone.

MOP(珍珠母)，鲍鱼壳常用于表上&表盘。

Tortoise – look

龟壳图案

Look of tortoise shell (plastic) used on fashion bangle & bracelet watches.看上去象龟壳的图案（塑胶）常用于时尚手镯式或

手链式的表带上。

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